My 5 favourite multi-pitch routes in the Tarn Gorges

Thirty years of climbing these cliffs eventually creates a sentimental map. Here are the five routes I run most often, and why I love them.

Multi-pitch climbing Tarn and Jonte gorges limestone cliffs

1. Le Pradinas, for the introduction

Sector: Tarn Gorges, near Le Truel. Grades: 4c to 5c, 80 to 100 m high, 3 pitches. Who it's for: climbers discovering multi-pitch routes. Why I love it: route-finding is obvious, the belay stations are comfortable, and the top-out opens onto a stunning view of the Tarn 200 m below. It's my default beginner's route.

2. L'arête ouest de la Jonte, for the photo

Sector: Jonte Gorges, north bank. Grades: 5b to 6a, 100 m high, 4 pitches. Who it's for: experienced climbers, leading 5c outdoors. Why I love it: this is the iconic ridge that appears on every photo of the Jonte. Vultures pass at eye level in the mid-morning. The fifth pitch tops out on the plateau, that end-of-the-world feeling guaranteed.

3. La Cathédrale, for the panorama

Sector: Tarn Gorges, opposite Les Vignes. Grades: 5b to 6a, 150 m high, 5 pitches. Who it's for: solid climbers, ready to keep moving. Why I love it: a huge amphitheatre, athletic moves, and a summit that overlooks the entire Tarn. The fourth pitch crosses a big roof, slightly committing but so spectacular.

4. Le Cinglegros, for the sporty climber

Sector: Causse Méjean, north bank of the Tarn. Grades: 6a to 6b, 120 to 200 m depending on linkup, 4 to 6 pitches. Who it's for: seasoned climbers leading 6a/6b outdoors. Why I love it: technical, sporty terrain, rarely crowded. Bivouacking at the top (self-supported) is one of my best climbing memories in the Cévennes.

5. Le Vase de Chine, for raw beauty

Sector: Tarn Gorges, La Malène. Grades: 5c to 6a, 100 m high, 3 pitches. Who it's for: intermediate climbers who appreciate aesthetic lines. Why I love it: the rock formation, shaped like a giant vase, is unique in France. The second pitch follows a perfect dihedral. Descent is by bolted abseils, with a short walk back to the car.

A multi-pitch route is more than a sporting outing. It's an object of memory. I remember every first ascent, and I see those memories being born in my clients.

How to book

All these routes are available through my multi-pitch climbing Millau service. When you book, I ask about your level (top grade led outdoors, multi-pitch experience), your current fitness, and your preference (technical, athletic, panoramic). I then suggest one or two routes, and we choose together on the morning depending on the weather.

For multi-pitch beginners looking for a shorter introduction, look instead at sport climbing in the Jonte as a half-day.

Bérengère professional multi-pitch climbing instructor
BérengèreMulti-pitch instructor for 22 years in the Cévennes. Get to know me.

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