Dourbie Gorges, the other valley.

The Dourbie rises on the southern slopes of Mont Aigoual, at 1,200 metres of altitude. It flows north-west through the villages of Saint-Jean-du-Bruel, Nant, Cantobre, La Roque-Sainte-Marguerite and La Cresse, before joining the Tarn at Millau. Along the way it carves a deep valley between the Causse Noir to the north and the Causse du Larzac to the south, over 50 kilometres.

The Dourbie sees far fewer visitors than the Tarn Gorges. The road that follows it (the D991) is narrow and winding, with few grand viewpoints. You have to take the time to drop down into the valley to discover it. That is precisely its charm.

My activities on the Dourbie

• Gentle canyoning, an easy water hike, ideal for nature lovers.
• Via ferrata du Boffi, on the Causse Noir above the valley, with two spectacular zip lines.
• Climbing on a few quieter sectors of the north-bank cliffs.

Wildlife and flora of the Dourbie

The Dourbie is a designated Natura 2000 site. Clean water and excellent ecological quality: you find the white-clawed crayfish (a protected species), brown trout and bullhead. On the banks, the European beaver is present. Above, griffon vultures and peregrine falcons. As for flora: box trees (very dense on the ledges), Montpellier maples, holm oaks, and ferns in the shaded areas.

The villages to see

My favourites in the valley:

• Cantobre, a village perched on a rocky spur, with a plunging view.
• Saint-Jean-du-Bruel, an authentic market town and canyoning departure point.
• Nant, with its Benedictine abbey and Tuesday-morning market.
• La Roque-Sainte-Marguerite, a hamlet clinging to the cliff.

How to reach the Dourbie

From Millau, follow the D991 towards Nant. Allow 30 minutes to Saint-Jean-du-Bruel and 45 minutes to Nant. The road is beautiful but slow. For accommodation, I recommend guesthouses in La Cresse, La Roque-Sainte-Marguerite or Saint-André-de-Vézines.